Wednesday, January 11, 2017

30 Days of Sharing Historical Costuming Challenge

Hello everyone,

It's been a while since I posted, but I have been busy.

Over the holidays, I had quite a bit of time off of work (which was glorious and I wish it could have lasted forever), and I was able to sew a little bit every day. My first project flopped (a Regency-era doll dress for which I chose too thick a fabric) but I picked myself up and started again on a modern doll dress, modeled by my newest American Girl model, Addy, which My Love got me for Christmas because he is amazing and so supportive of my sewing and hobbies.


Isn't she gorgeous?  This dress is now available on my Etsy shop.

Besides that, I have been reading up a lot on 18th century undergarments. I think I am stalling because I am terrified to cut into my beautiful new 3.5 oz. linen from fabrics-store.com. I want it to be perfect, which is perhaps expecting too much of myself.  I am also still uncertain whether to go for creating a Regency or a Georgian wardrobe, though it just a chemise and therefore not really that much of a commitment.

I really should just make the first cut and get on with it.

Besides stalling on my shift/chemise project, I have been participating in Jennifer Rosbrugh's #sharinghistorical challenge on Instagram. It's been so fun so far. I enjoy posting myself, but most of all, I love seeing all the inspiration shared by others. Today the theme is Sewing Techniques, and I have already learned so much. Swing over to Instagram and search #sharinghistorical, if you haven't already. To see my posts, check out my Instagram at @thedashwoodsisters.


Hopefully, if I can get over my fear of cutting into my new linen fabric, you will be hearing from me again soon with actual historical sewing updates.

Yours,
Melanie/Elinor


Friday, December 16, 2016

New Etsy Listing


I put aside sewing while I was in college because I was "too busy." Now I'm finding the same applies for after you've graduated and you're working full time plus trying to keep on top of all the other adult responsibilities in life.  So despite my desire to have at least ten doll dresses listed by now, I've only listed two.  Here's the one just listed yesterday


The dress was inspired by the one Anne Hathaway wears at the ball in "Becoming Jane". I ended up detouring with the pattern along the way and eliminated the waistband, finishing it with a lacy trim instead.  The fabric I used is leftover silky polyester jacquard I had used years ago for my green ball gown. I don't know why I chose polyester back then if I was trying to be historically accurate, but there are a lot of things I don't understand about what I did back in those days. Anyway, the point is, it's not as historically accurate as I'd prefer, but I do like the way it turned out in the end regardless of that. (Further note: besides being historically inaccurate, I never want to use that fabric again. It is an absolutely pain to work with because it slides and snags like crazy. It's gorgeous... but a pain.)

I named the item after Jane Austen (whose birthday it is today, by the way.)  I am playing with the idea of naming different doll outfits after various authors to give the shop a more literary turn (I must do something with my English major, right?)  What authors from various eras would you like to see represented?


On another note, I finally ordered some gorgeous 3.5 oz linen from Fabrics-Store.com, so it is time to start on my historical undergarments project. The question is, should I make more Regency clothes (continuing my theme from years ago) or dive into the colonial era?  What do you think?

Friday, October 7, 2016

Regency Underpinnings Research

As I have said in previous blog posts, I hope to get back into historical sewing starting with foundations: chemise, stays, and so on. I already made those several years ago, but I didn't give much attention to historical accuracy, and this time I want to make them as nearly accurate as possible-- which means doing a lot of research.  And even if that didn't matter so much, I've gone up a few pounds and dress sizes since the last time I was sewing historical costumes, so I really do have to start again from Square 1.

The last time I made Regency undergarments, I used Sense and Sensibility Pattern's chemise and short stays pattern. It was easy to make and turned out well, but I found that the stays were uncomfortable for my back. That could have been my own problem with sizing or lacing, but whatever the case is, I would like to try a different style this time.  So I have been researching different patterns and styles as well as techniques.


Below are various links I've compiled, with helpful information on Regency-era underpinnings (both chemise and stays).  I thought it would be helpful-- both to myself and to my readers-- to share my research progress as I go.  Perhaps these links and images will come in handy for you as well.

Research

Undressing the  Regency Lady
http://oregonregency.blogspot.com/2011/03/undressing-regency-lady.html
A helpful overview of the various pieces of Regency era undergarments. This article provides links to recommended patterns and also includes videos by costumers demonstrating the parts of Regency clothing.

"Short Stays" Studies - Schnürleib Studien
http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.de/2013/05/short-stays-studies-schnurleib-studien.html
This post (and in fact, the blog in general) contains a vast amount of useful research on transitional stays. The blogger has researched originally texts and images to recreate three different kinds of transitional stays from approximately 1810/11.  The post is very informative and helpful, and the comments section has a wealth of useful information and discussion as well.

An Overview of Regency Stays/Corsets
http://oregonregency.blogspot.de/2010/06/overview-of-regency-stayscorsets.html
This post is inspiring and informative. It contains a lot of beginner information about busks, gussets, and the desired Regency silhouette. It also surveys three different kinds of Regency era corsets: short stays, transitional stays, and full stays, along with helpful information about which style works best for what size/body type, how difficult/easy they are to make, and which patterns to use (there are lots of helpful options!)

Fabrics for Undergarments 
http://historicalsewing.com/fabrics-for-undergarments
One of my concerns is choosing accurate and beautiful fabrics with which to make my Regency wardrobe, even the part no one will see.  Last time I made my chemise out of JoAnn's muslin, which was okay, but perhaps too thick.  This link provided useful information about what kind of fabric to use to make historical undergarments.

Achieving a Proper Fit with Regency Stays 
http://oregonregency.blogspot.com/2011/10/achieving-proper-fit-with-regency-stays.html
A discussion on the proper form and fit of Regency stays.  It contains some helpful infographics for the parts of Regency stays and the proper silhouette they should create. There are also basic pictorial instructions for sewing gussets and cutout cups.

Tutorials

Corded Boning
http://www.jennylafleur.com/study/runners.htm
Here is a helpful tutorial on corded boning, something I haven't ventured into yet but would like to try possibly on my next corset project.

How to Make Beautiful Hand-Bound Eyelets
http://curiousfrau.com/2009/08/16/how-to-make-beautiful-hand-bound-eyelets/
As the title says, this post shows how to make hand-bound eyelets. I have never been able to successfully make eyelets look good, so I plan to follow this tutorial when it comes to making the eyelets on my corset, and I hope the result is good.


Patterns

Laughing Moon Mercantile - Long and Short Stays (leaning towards this one, both because of the variety and the time frame represented)

Past Patterns - 1820s-1840s Corded Stays (more likely for a later project if I decide to focus more on the later Regency/Romantic era)

Past Patterns - A 'Transition Stay' Fashionable Circa 1796-1806 (possibly too early of a style)

Koshka the Kat - My 1820-1840 Corset Reproduction (I actually made a mock-up version of this years ago, and would love to make it again. Again, this one is a little late for Regency.)


Inspiration
Transitional Stays. I read that these were part of the Kent State Museum collection but after some research, I've been unable to find any definite information on it. Nevertheless, I found some good images of various angles here. Romantic History's Sarah and Koshka the Kat's Katherine have made inspiring reproductions of this.
Corset, ca. 1811, The Met
Stays, ca. 1790 (Victoria and Albert Museum)
Bodice, Pallais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

Transitional and long busked stays, found at American Duchess
Set of Cord-Quilted Stays: ca. early 19th century


A wonderful collection of images for further inspiration can be found at Historical Corsets. (These are, of course, not all Regency-era items.) 

I've also been collecting images on my Pinterest page.



What links would you add to this post? 
What are some good resources you've found for research or inspiration? 
What is your favorite Regency-era stays/corset pattern?  



Tuesday, September 20, 2016

Update

I have still not been able to start with my sewing projects for my Etsy shop because I went to start on a doll dress yesterday and realized that I didn't have the pedal and cord attachment for my serger.  Oops. My mom looked around for it at home (which is over an hour away) and couldn't find it, so it looks like I will just have to order a new one.  So that means a couple days yet until I can start working on things for my shop.

However, my plan for after work today is to stop by the JoAnn Fabrics which is just around the corner and purchase some fabric for a Regency-era chemise. My Love is busy all evening so I can set aside a good amount of time to get started on this project.  I am debating whether to make that completely hand-sewn for authenticity's sake or not.  I am also curious whether anyone has advice on what kind of fabric to use?  The last one I made was regular cotton, and it was okay, but I'd like to try something different this time.  I was looking at JoAnn's Sew Classic Linen Solid Fabric but I have never used that product and also am not sure how nearly accurate it is. Advice? 

The thing is, coming back to historical costuming, I really want to do it well, and accurately, as well as I can.  So I am in need of all kinds of really good sources and lots of wise advice. 

Also, recommendations for a good Regency era corset/stays pattern?

Wishing you all the best this week! 
~Melanie/Elinor

Saturday, September 17, 2016

Progress

This last week I finally set up a sewing area in my apartment. It's the first designated sewing area I've had since I moved out of my parents' house in January 2012, so I am pretty excited. There's just something so motivating about having a special place just for crafting and sewing.


This picture is hardly an accurate representation of what it will be once I actually get into sewing.  For one thing, I have at least three tubs of fabric still at my parents' house, that I have yet to bring over and sort. Also, While I love having a place for everything, I have a harder time keeping everything in its place.  

But I'm happy with how it is now.  I have different projects organized in small tubs (thanks, Costco), and separated fabrics by type and color. Then there is a shelf dedicated to shipping materials for my Etsy shop. Ladies and gentlemen, we are good to go.

Speaking of Etsy, I relisted a couple items this last week to start easing people back into awareness of the shop and to give a preview of what is to come.  The two items sold out pretty quickly, so I am feeling very positive for the future of my shop.


I am currently preparing to make a couple more modern-style dresses, as well as putting together a Regency line which I hope to introduce all at once. More to follow.


The challenge is finding the time to sew. I work 10-4 (9-5 if you include the drive) Monday through Fridays and also spend a great deal of time attending art festivals and orchestras, exploring Cleveland MetroParks, trying Cleveland's dining scene, and just generally spending time with My Love, and besides all that, I write for an arts, culture, and music magazine out of Akron, Ohio, so altogether, I just don't have as much time as I'd like for sewing.  But now that my sewing area is all set up, I should be able to fit in an hour or more throughout the week for working on my projects. Hopefully by the end of next week, I can say that was actually the case.

Wednesday, September 7, 2016

Paige's Gray Ball Gown

Another project I worked on while I was away from this blog is a ballgown for a friend of mine. I made it in 2011 for the annual Regency Christmas Ball in Erie, PA, and the following year, Paige wanted to change up the dress a little, so we added some trimmings to change the look.

I used Simplicity #4055, but made significant alterations throughout as usual. 



2011
The fabric Paige chose was a beautiful gray-ish green silky material that provided a truly elegant effect. It's been almost five years since I made this dress, so I regret to say that I don't remember the exact kind of material I used. 


Paige wanted a button-front detail on the dress, so I altered the Simplicity Regency pattern accordingly. The buttons were just for looks, and the dress fastened with a zipper down the back. 


2012

The following year, Paige wanted me to add some details to make the dress look a little different and more complete than it had before. One addition was to add trim down the sides of the bodice. 


I also added trim to the sleeves, a waistband, and a Regency-inspired trim around the hem.


Thanks so much to Paige for allowing me to share these photos, and also for all of her creative input in reinventing the dress in 2012.  Also thanks to Renee S. and Brandon P. for the photos. 

Tuesday, September 6, 2016

New Facebook Page!

I have created a Facebook page to accompany this blog. Check it out at
https://www.facebook.com/TheDashwoodSisters09/

Also, just as a reminder, if you are more interested in following the doll clothes aspect of my work, check out my Etsy Shop's Facebook page at
https://www.facebook.com/thedashwoodsisters/